IMG_5721Why do you uncuff your sleeve? Undoing a button on functioning sleeve seems like a fairly innocent and graceful act of style and preference until you get asked to explain the reason behind it.I would like to point out that Questions from individuals who are totally oblivious to the happenings in menswear puts a neat paw on why menswear is so crazy about certain things, it makes you wonder if the surgeon’s cuff has a chance wearing the white ”button” and saving the world. According to history, Savile Row was inhabited largely by surgeons

before the tailors moved in during the 19th century, and their influence can be seen in the “surgeon’s cuff”. On the most expensive suits the cuff buttons, which mirror the pips of military rank, can be undone, allowing the sleeve to be rolled back. This let surgeons attend patients spouting blood without removing their coats—an important distinction that set them apart from shirt-sleeved tradesmen of the lower orders.On the subject of the functioning sleeve, I have never sat down to put reason as to why the world of menswear is so fascinated something that has no depth in the utility pool, for heaven’s sake it’s just a couple of undone buttons on a man’s suit sleeve! personally I think the functioning cuff has single handedly eased menswear of all the pea cocking it has been bottling inside, I call it the exhale” button .Classic Menswear grounds itself in “effortlessness”, that means looking like a million dollars without a breaking a sweat,at least from the outside. This however leaves no room for desperate and costume looking ensembles, basically the harder you try the less elegant you come off…and menswear that means you wearing a costume. Buying a thousand plus dollar shoes with red bottoms probably won’t get you a seat on the round table of menswear, and that’s because in the world of classic menswear every flex of muscle is in almost in hiding. From the choice of leather or fabric, to the way a garment or shoe is crafted, the muscle is always in the subtle details, hence the functioning cuff. It’s easily missed yet very bold, it’s menswear’s own way of pea-cocking in the most subtle nature, who would ever thought an undone button would bring on such a frenzy.IMG_5943


3 responses to THE SURGEON’S CUFF

  1. BJW

    This is great! I call it “the Regulator” button, namely because it gets hot in these parts and loosening that button opens up the cuff for air. Also, that seersucker jacket is fantastic.

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