FWST: The return of the hustler in sharp shoes

Courtesy of fan mail from Ottawa Canada I am bringing you the flight requirements for the week day jet rendezvous . If my inner rapper intro didn’t get the kite across your sky don’t be alarmed, I am gonna make some tea and elaborate. I recently got a facebook message from a fan in Ottawa and the difference with this mail was that apart from the usual  mention of  appreciation for  my material it had suggestions..the first of its kind. Apparently the personal style post that I put up sways to a more casual lane , long story short my reader from ottawa  wants a dive into my formal wear secrets, which I am too pleased to share . Kindly buckle up, there are no flight attendants on this flight. 

The suit:

If you are lucky enough to pick up thousand dollar suits or have them custom made for you then I am humble enought to admit we are not in the same classroom (I’ll catch you at lunch break) .My go to weapon when shopping for suits is knowing my fit, and even though off the rack suits won’t always get your fit on spot you r better off knowing your exact fit to get the best out them, otherwise leaving the store would be your best option. Getting to know your chest size,arm lenght,waist size is a stone throw from any tailoring shop or local tailor (stop using the measurements your mum assumed you were), and be mindful of these measurements when you are getting slim suits because your size will differ from regular fit suits. I pick up suits from all over the place taking in the material they made of and the style they are cut in . I try to stay away from buying suits made of materials for the wrong climate which seems so far fetched till you are face to face with a bargain that makes you wanna dance in the changing room,..you don’t wanna wear winter sale suits in the summer just because you got a deal on them because they are lined differently especially for the season. If you are new to the suit game and you are just about to dive into it I suggest you begin with the dark colors to get your feet wet, trust me its your best option as it will be easier to  fit into you wardrobe as it becomes easier to pair with neutral and bright colored items which is standard for the cooperate look . After I pick up my suits off the rack I still take them to the tailors to get the right cuff length or fix the break in my pants (where the pants break from my shoes) .

THE CUFF :When it comes to the cuff length its tradition  for them break right at the head of your footwear to give off that clean look as opposed to the sloppy gathering of fabric that most gentlemen fall victim to . I use to think this mark was a  modern one that  the men in rome were guilty off  till I found out  scoping through the pages of history that it has been the gentleman’s birthmark elegantly acquired from the hands of the tailor .

SLEEVE: Another must-touch when I go to the tailor is the arm length of the suit jacket . As simple as this rule is , its easy to spot gentlemen worldwide breaking this rule without shame. The traditional rule is  in the length of the sleevs. These sleeves should always end at the wristbone, with your arm at rest.I personally think that it is a great detail to have your shirt pop out a little bit underneath your sleeves. You will see the perfect essence of this mark when you are wearing a dinstict  coloured shirt, this is because it tends to highlight the coordination of your colors and adds more than a dollar to  your appearance. Correct sleeve length is a mark of a gentlemen and works magic on making off the rack suit look ten times their worth.

Pocket square : Among the various folds of the pocket square I personally favorite the classic square Fold. Why? Its easy to execute and that  doesn’t take away its weapon of dinstiction.  The classic square pocket fold is clean on the eye and so its perfect for business occasions. Spotting a square fold is as easy as memorising just the first three letters of Angelina jolie’s lips, yes let the Y be .(If you didn’t get that make yourself a cup of tea it will come to you. The easy part of the square fold is you don’t break the bank just to spot it , you can easily execute it with a simple cotton handkerchief . Iron,fold and place. DONE

Shirt: When the say this is the tricky part trust me 90 percent of the time its about a shirt . When it comes to shirts its like making a cup of tea, everybody takes it differently . I am not gonna bash my preference on you but I am going to let my weapon of choice and hope it inspires you. When it comes to shirts I always keep it bold and simple, trust me this trick will you take you further than a plane ticket . Bold colored shirts make it easy to pair with ties, so its simple, I keep the shirts bold neutral and bright colors , and pair them with dark colored ties . Remember its not traditionally proper to sport dark colored shirts to work and it doesn’t hurt to sprinkle your collection with some bright colors in light shades . If you just started getting into formal wear I suggest you go for bold whites, light blue and grey to start with and then you can get a bit more adventurous when you get your feet wet enough. And if your not in the IT department kindly stay away from shirts with pockets if you are going to be wearing a suit , like the oil stain on your shirt during lunch, it does not speak well of you .

Tie : when it comes to my choice of ties I keep the rule simple : keep it dark . You will rarely catch me sporting a fancy tie that makes coordination a feat just to pull a few stares .  Keeping my ties dark makes it easy to pair it with my neutral and bright colored shirts since they form the perfect backdrop to highlight the tie. My motto is to keep it clean ,classy and simple so my go to tie is this black knitted tie from Monde and I must say it treats me so well sometimes I spot through the week .

Socks: I’ll keep the socks rule simple and shorter than Joe pesci picking up a pencil from the floor. Socks matches the suit not the shoe . Period  

FULL BREAK : In case you are lost and are wondering what I’m talking about, the break refers to the horizontal crease created by your pants touching your shoe. *LECTURE STARTS* ” Suit pants are tailored.  Meaning, they’re meant to follow the natural shape of your body and to present you in the best possible light.  A tailor’s job is really to make you look as good as possible in what you have.  When you buy a nice suit, generally the pants come unhemmed, meaning that the material is unfinished at the bottom of the legs.  This is to allow you to have your pants hemmed to precisely the right length from the get-go.  When pants hit your shoes, they “break”, meaning that they begin to pool at your feet.  They no longer form a crisp line from top to bottom.  The more material left at the bottom of the pant, the more “break” the pants have.  In other words, my point is that men are wearing suit pants with too much break. Pants look best when they break once, and only once.  In other words, they hit the top of your shoes in such a way as to cause the crisp line that has been pressed into your pants to break in once as you stand still.  Often, this requires a tailor to hem the back of your pants (i.e. the part that hits the heel of your shoes) slightly longer than the front of your pants to provide for the shape of your shoes. ou may ask why the break of one’s pants is an issue.  First, it looks sloppy to have a lot of break (see picture on the right).  Much of what makes a suit look finely tailored is to not have excess material hanging around that serves no purpose.  Having substantial break is a very casual look, and while sometimes it can provide that slouchy-coolness to a pair of jeans, it completely clashes with the formality of a suit.  Second, the modern trend is toward less break.  Men’s clothing makers, most notably Thom Browne , have been cutting pants to more extreme lengths to the point where they have no break at all (see picture above, at left).  I certainly wouldn’t recommend this look for most people (I want my lawyer, accountant, insurance broker and doctor to not be baring ankle in a suit), but it gives you an idea of where we’re at right now, stylewise.  In the same way that having large shoulder pads in a suit makes it look dated, so does pants with a large break.  Finally, a large break makes your legs look shorter.  This is less of an issue for taller gentlemen, but generally speaking, don’t men not want to appear shorter?  If you’re under 6, I wouldn’t recommend cuffing your pants – having lots of break is effectively a more extreme version of a cuff.  A long, unbroken line of pants creates the illusion of a longer leg –  the shorter you are, the less break you should be requesting. ”  _ ONE style guy 

 Takes a bow and makes more tea… I hope my people in Ottawa are doing the dance now. 

 Thank you. 


3 responses to FWST: The return of the hustler in sharp shoes

  1. fasasha

    fuck…i’m soo glad you are my friend! haha! i’m doing the ‘my friends dress well’ dance!!! bwhahaha

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